London’s Enchanting Reinvention of the East End.
There is nothing quite like walking the streets of London. In a word, it's pure, unadulterated entertainment especially if you choose locations of the calibre of London’s East End.
When I lived in this great city in the late ’80s, the East End and in particular Brick Lane was run down and more than a little shop soiled. Here was the district where Bangladeshis took up residence after arriving in their thousands from the war-ravaged country that they used to call home.
Walking the busy and Brick Lane Market on a Sunday I would often see young Bangladeshi women with their gold nose rings, peeking at the passing parade through slits in the curtains from upstairs rooms.
Brick Lanes and Whitechapel are areas of London that, from the late 19th Century until the early ’90s was branded, " the worst criminal rookery of London" and was the benchmark for urban deprivation and decay. One only has to think of Jack The Ripper and the notorious Kray Brothers who plied their murderous trades with reckless abandon in this part of the city.
Today, the East End has undergone an astonishing renaissance after a period of ‘gentrification' and is today considered one of the more desirable areas in which to live. In fact, it now bears the moniker of being, "the world's most vibrant contemporary art quarter".
The pavements, sidewalks and alleys in Spitalfields and the lanes flanking Brick Lane is a riot of colour giving the pedestrian a high energy feast of vibrant and often 'in your face' street art. An afternoon spent rambling from corner to corner in this highly creative parish is a delight as there’s plenty to surprise and much to amuse a keen-eyed visitor.
This open-to-all outdoor gallery is a perpetual work in progress as the consistent re-daubing of the urban landscape means every visit is perhaps pregnant with possibilities as you're always likely to see something new, vivid and unique that somehow sprang up overnight.
Brick Lane’s plethora of Balti restaurants sits spicy cheek by delicious jowl along the street, all promising the best curries in London or indeed the world. One I noticed had a sign outside that said, “Prince Charles Always Eats Here!”
Walking north up the street, below the landmark tower of the old Truman brewery is where the art really comes into its own. While admiring the artist’s handiwork you will pass the revamped Old Spitalfields Market in Brushfields Street
with its food stalls, cafes and restaurants which become tempting staging posts before or after a street art stroll. Nearby artistic attractions include the Dennis Severs House in Folgate Street, Raven Row in Artillery Street (a contemporary art space open free to the public Wednesday to Sundays) and the Whitechapel Gallery that specifically promotes artists living in the East End. The gallery is at the end of Brick Lane, close to Aldgate tube station.
And while I'm being amused and galvanised on my mini-excursion there is a team on the street that's busy with ladders, tools and brushes, hard at work "installing" another large scale piece of public art beneath the railway bridge, thereby brightening up another formerly dark and forbidding space. As I watch, fine new examples of East End grotesque appear before my eyes.
Keep walking towards the river and you will come across the sharpest address in town - a fact that's easy to grasp when seeing it up close for the first time from ground level.
Renzo Piano's 87-storey architectural marvel called The Shard pierces the sky and the often grey clouds above the London Bridge Quarter like an upthrust sword. This magnificent celebration of glass and steel has swiftly replaced 30 St Mary Axe, aka the Gherkin, as central London's building of note.
The Shard is proving so popular as a major attraction that you need to cough up the fairly robust £29.95 to visit The View, which is located at a lofty 244 metres above street level on floors 68, and 72. If you wish to get one of the best views in London its best to book a slot on the timed excursions and can be made in advance via the website.
A more cost-effective approach is to try one of the three restaurants which are located on levels 31 to 33 but be warned they too are a little on the pricey side but at least you will get a meal.! From this vantage point, the views that can be enjoyed over a drink at one of the bars and are every bit as good as those from the giddy heights above.
For those fortunate to be checking into the Shangri-La Hotel At The Shard (occupying levels 34-52) will naturally have the luxury of savouring wonderful London views at their leisure and also have the pleasure of sipping cocktails with a view from the hotel's GŎNG Bar on Level 52. This exceptional building was, on completion, like the Gherkin, derided for their brash architecture but now Londoners adore them and, why wouldn’t you as they have added a bold statement to the ever-changing skyline
London. What’s not to love about this wonderful city?
