It is hard to think of many ‘exotic’ desert cities for they often struggle to escape the dust, the heat and the vast distances one has to travel in order to reach them. There is one, however, that has drawn travellers, merchants, marauding barbarians, camel caravans and holy men to its walls like moths to a flame for over a thousand years — the old city of Marrakech.

Once Morocco’s thriving capital, this is a city that has survived the rigors of time — enduring terrible droughts, wars, sieges and Machiavellian skullduggery — to emerge almost unscathed and continue to act as a magnet for those seeking a glimpse into this time capsule that, fascinatingly, still behaves just like it has for a over a millennium.

Perched precariously on the edge of the mighty Sahara Desert and dwarfed by the majestic, snow-capped Atlas Mountains, Marrakech, or “the Ochre city” as it is fondly called, stands seemingly frozen in time, surrounded by 19 kms. of powder-pink sandstone walls. The architecture is a riot of colour, comprised mainly of red -baked mud medinas and palaces that seem to have been there since time immemorial. This is one of the greatest crossroads of the sub-Saharan continent; a city that grew from a tiny market town into the largest, bustling metropolis of the Maghreb.

The moment one passes through one of the city’s imposing gates you find yourself in a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets. There are 18 of them within the city walls, all seemingly bursting at the seams with vendors selling copperware, silver, gold, carpets and more. These tightly packed spaces heave with a vitality that’s rare to find anywhere else, as more than 40,000 shop- and stall-owners try to entice you into their Aladdin’s cave, with offers of small cups of mint tea. There are also farmers selling live chickens, calling out prices, and creating a cacophony that is altogether deafening. The experience is exhilarating, to say the least.

Strolling these narrow streets can take an entire day. And interestingly, all the roads seemingly lead to the breathtaking Jemmaa el - Fnaa Square, the massive centerpiece of the city and the largest (and busiest) marketplace in Africa. This one place unifies the past and the present, as ancient traditions collide head-on with modernity. Jemaa el-Fnaa translates roughly to, “the assembly of trespassers,” which is a rather apt description given the makeup of people who ply their skills on the ancient streets.

This bustling square is what possibly attracted the likes of the Rolling Stones, The Beatles, Yves St Laurent and a host of other celebrities of the mid 60’s to spend time here. 

One gets a feeling that not much has changed here in a thousand years. The activities practiced here today could well be customs from the past. Drummers and pipe players dole out Arabic Rhythms to which Dervish dancers whirl like carousels in self-induced trances. Snake charmers entice their hooded cobras to rise from their baskets, while imploring you to toss them a few dirhams. Acrobats flip flop past you as you make your way through young dancing boys from the Atlas Mountains, wizened storytellers, magicians, mystics, monkey trainers and more. While it is as enchanting as it sounds, beware of the scores of deft pickpockets waiting for easy tourist prey.

Walking through the souks can be a bit exhausting. In order to rejuvenate, head to one of the numerous hammams  (public bath houses) that dot the city, where a massage and a steam bath will iron out those pesky kinks. Do try the Hammam de la Rose Spa — take a eucalyptus scrub; a rose petal mud mask, a foot massage and final rub down with enriching Argan oil.

Once reinvigorated it will be time to immerse yourself in the tranquility of the Palace of the Medersa Ali Ben Youssef and the green cacti gardens of the Jardin Majorelle gardens on Avenue Jacoub el Mansour. These exquisite gardens were faithfully restored to their former glory under the watchful eye of Yves St Laurent.

As evening falls the call to prayer resonates across the rooftops summoning the faithful to the Koutoubia mosque which is your cue to visit Le Grand Balcon du Café (north west corner of Jemaa el-Fnaa) This is the best place to get an elevated view of the proceedings of the square down below. But try to get there early, as it is always crowded.

As the sun goes down, as if by magic, the daytime vendors slink off, and a vast array of small tents are erected. Under these, communal tables and chairs are set up and the stall- holders will busy themselves for the evening trade. Soon, smoke from hundreds of woks and cooking pots begins to swirl around the shimmering lanterns that now dot the square, bringing with it a kaleidoscope of colour and smells that make the mouth water.

Wander in and pull up a chair: soon you will be devouring delicious barbecued kebabs, crisp vegetables, or, if you feel terribly brave, the famous snail soup. If you prefer to go ‘up market’, try Pepenero — the restaurant that has attracted ‘foodies’ from across the globe to dine on its famous, ‘fusion’

The nightlife in Marrakech is as vibrant as the energy during the day. Do swing by Club Pacha — Africa’s largest nightclub, which rivals anything Ibiza has to offer.

Marrakech is a city every traveller should visit at least once in his or her lifetime. It is sure to seduce and capture your imagination, and will call like a siren from the sea when you depart, begging you to return.

As author Tahir Shah says in his travel book, ‘In Arabian Nights: A Caravan of Moroccan Dreams’, “I believe that Marrakech ought to be earned as a destination. The journey is the preparation for the experience. Reaching it too fast derides it, makes it a little less easy to understand.” 

Paul v Walters is the best selling author of several best selling novels and when not cocooned in sloth and procrastination in his house in Bali he scribbles for several international travel and vox pop journals. His latest offering, Asset, will be released in late 2017.

Break out Boxes

Where to stay

Marrakech caters to visitors on all budgets but here are three hotels to consider.

If 5 star luxury is for you then consider Mandarin Oriental, a luxurious hideaway 20 minutes drive southeast of the Medina, with it’s. It has 54 villas, lake-like pools and stunning spa surrounded by gardens planted with over 100,000 roses. From $1000 P/N

At the mid range mid range: Riad Mena & Beyond is a funky riad set around two spacious courtyards with each room having a different theme. It is located near Place Douar Graoua. Doubles start from  $200 P/N

For budget conscious, the Riad Le J is the place for you.  Situated behind the Mouassine mosque a night here will be less than the cost of a decent souvenir. Doubles from $100 P/N