For the first time visitor, Tokyo can be a little daunting but actually, this mega - city is one of the friendliest, safest and, dare I say it weirdest cities on the planet.

Tokyo is home to a staggering 37 million residents, packed cheek by crowded jowl into an area half the size of London. It has a $2.5 trillion economy meaning that if it were a country, this city would have the 8th-largest economy in the world.

Truly a mega-metropolis of dizzying contradictions, with its neon-lit skyscrapers, inebriated salarymen, orderly crowds, packed commuter trains, cutting-edge architecture and futuristic technology; one thing about Tokyo, it's never boring.

Scattered throughout the skyscrapers are ancient shrines, plant-covered wooden houses, cycling grannies, old-school sweet and cake- shops and winding village-like lanes. The city also seems to possess hyperactive skyline that changes as regularly as the distinct seasons as apparently, the lifespan of a high rise is just fifteen years!

Here is a city rooted in its ancient traditions even with its sprawling dimensions and a population the size of most European countries. It maintains a calm and efficient rhythm where trains run on time, there is no public litter and street crime is near non-existent. In short, it works and works incredibly well.

This is a place for foodies with sushi to soba, and everything else in between, and boasts the highest volume of Michelin stars anywhere. For those with an appetite for fabulous steaks a visit to the New York Bar and Grill, perched dizzyingly on the 51 St. floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel is a must. Used as a setting in the movie, ‘Lost In Translation’ the views are breathtaking, the food, wine and service sublime, so bring a healthy appetite and a bulging wallet as the prices have the ability to cause a mild case of indigestion.

The 2020 summer Olympics are coming to Tokyo as is the 2019 Rugby World Cup and it appears that the mood of the city is refreshingly upbeat with the skyline festooned with cranes with a raft of new hotels, office towers and infrastructure upgrades reaching ever skyward.

This is not really a centralized city but more of a colourful urban patchwork of distinct neighbourhoods that have their own unique character. Omotesando and Harajuku are a must see to get a glimpse of the city’s weird and wonderful fashion pedigree, where teen tribes and label-loving adults crowd into the district’s tiny streets. Ginza offers the finest in shopping while Roppongi’s numerous bars and clubs cater to absolutely every taste.

Japan can be a minefield when it comes to the unspoken rules for Gaijin (foreigners). From the handling of chopsticks, getting into taxis or taking the metro, almost every aspect of daily life is governed by rigorous etiquette. For instance; there is no culture of tipping, so don't try to tip in taxis or in restaurants (this can result in the driver or waiter running after you to give the money back!). It's impolite to talk on your mobile phone whilst on public transport. Remove your shoes on tatami mat floors and never, ever blow your nose in public.

Now for The Weird!

For the Gaijin there are a few things (actually many) that appear to be pretty weird but are an acceptable trait in Japanese culture. Here are a few that are worth mentioning;

‘Cuddle Cafes.’

The first of these opened about three years ago and are known as ‘Soine ya.’ A literal translation would equate to, ‘ sleep together shop’ These curious establishments allow men to sleep next to a girl, for a fee naturally. These are not brothels as sexual requests are strictly forbidden. For an extra 1000 yen, the couple can stare at each other for sixty seconds. Add another 3000 yen and she will allow the male to stroke her hair for three minutes.

If this is your kind of thing, head over to Akihabara which is where these ‘cuddle cafes’ are located.

Dressing Up.

Here is a city whose population seems to love getting into costume. A recent night out in Roppongi over Halloween proved testament to this where ever reveller in the bars and clubs I visited wore, elaborate and bizarre colourful costumes while they strutted their stuff. If one has a yearning to see girls dressed in maid’s outfits, seek out a Maidreamin Café where your coffee and muffin will be served to you by a provocatively dressed female in maid attire.

Love Hotels;

Most of the stations and in industrial centres are the ‘Love Hotels’ These are easily recognized by the gaudy neon signs festooned with love hearts situated over the front door. Space, and therefore privacy is at a premium in Tokyo forcing couples to use these establishments for their lovemaking. An estimated 2% of Japan’s population use Love Hotels each and every day.

Happy Toilets

Walk into a Tokyo bathroom and the ‘smart toilet’ will literally greet you by automatically lifting the lid. As if this isn’t enough, a panel, mounted to the wall will contain an array of buttons illustrated by stick men and other symbols open I guess to interpretation.

Once seated, the user is confronted by numerous options; toilet seat heating temperature, water pressure settings for the electronic bidet, full bottom wash and even one that when pushed plays a happy tune to cover the sound of embarrassing bodily noises.

Tell the truth, one has to search the buttons to find the one that says flush.

 Inemuri.

Travelling on the ever efficient and sparkling clean metro you will be confronted by the practice of Inemuri. In essence, this means taking a nap. The Japanese work incredibly long hours and they have developed the ability to fall asleep in an instant.

It is not unusual to enter a carriage on the metro where most, if not all of the passengers are fast asleep. Inemuri is also practised in the workplace where they hope that, by taking a power nap, hope that their boss will assume that they have been working hard and need the nap to perform even better.

Tokyo is a city full of surprises and because of this is a sensational city to visit. My journey this time around was a short one as I travelled to see New Zealand play Australia (the team I follow) We lost….again..... so enough said about that, as Tokyo’s delights more than made up for a silly rugby game.

All Photography Copyright E.J. Lenahan & Paul v Walters