First Published In Oryx Magazine. Qatar Airways 2018

The early morning sun spears like an arrow through the buildings in old Batavia illuminating an old man hosing down the cobblestones while, across the square a restaurateur arranges chairs and tables on the pavement then pulls down a colourful awning.

Apart from the humidity, I could easily have been in Europe except, a few minutes later the city awoke and roared into life and I realize that I am in one of the most fascinating, mysterious and culturally diverse cities on earth. Jakarta.

Jakarta is like a blast from a giant furnace – the sweltering heat, the bombardment of exhaust fumes from vehicles funneling from twelve lanes into four as taxi drivers, iconicbajaj ( tuk -tuks) and motorcycles jockey for position as they squeeze forward on the crowded streets populated by some of the nicest people on the planet.

The city wakes each morning as if from a restless sleep, eager to get going, groaning into life as the population begins to go about their daily business. There is a wonderful Indonesian expression that perfectly sums up this place, ‘Samua bisa di atur,‘ (anything can be arranged) and to all intents and purposes, it’s entirely true.

A first taste of this, the nation’s capital, located on the northern tip of Java, (the largest of the 17,508 islands in the Indonesian archipelago) is excitement personified!

Jakarta is a city full of wonder and, although the traffic will always be chaotic, life lately has been made a lot easier for visitors via a new free bus system that circles all the main attractions.

Apart from the 10 million people who call this metropolis home which is swelled by another 8 million who pour into the city to work each day the vastness of Jakarta might at first seem daunting for the first time visitor.

 Fear not! 

This is one of the great melting pots of history, cultures and cuisines and discovering them all is part of its allure. So, take a deep breath and dive right in.

Batavia is undoubtedly the best place to start, as it is the perfect introduction to Jakarta’s origins and, once you have discovered it’s past it is to the fashionable Menteng district you should head. 

With it’s exclusive restaurants and hip hotels and some excellent live music venues, featuring the best of Indonesian talent, the place fairly hums. All across this metropolis world-renowned restaurants, overseen by outstanding chefs, perch on top of towering skyscrapers giving diners a dizzying view of the city, while far below shoppers head in droves to the dozens of gargantuan shopping malls.

Indonesia is a fascinating country and has an even more fascinating history. Since “Java Man” first roamed around, circa 1 million BC ;  it’s history goes something like this – Hindu Kingdoms reigned from 4th Century, then came the Muslim Sultanates, followed by 3 ½ centuries of Dutch rule, occupation by the Japanese during WWII, and finally the Republic of Indonesia. 

Since that historic day the country has planted its feet firmly on the world stage.

Jakarta is a city that has definitely come of age in the last twenty years or so as towering skyscrapers fill the skyline, cementing its status as one of South East Asia’s leading powerhouses. However, amongst these gleaming, glass encased edifices most of the city has managed to retain much of its heritage and so, to discover it’s past let us return to the old part of the city for here is where it all began.

Kota.

Kota Tua is Oud Batavia; the first walled settlement created by the Dutch from the 16th-19th century and was the de facto capital of the Dutch East Indies. For the next two hundred years it became the center of commerce due to its strategic position and access to the spices so desired by Europeans. Its phenomenal wealth was built on the humble pepper, nutmeg, cardamom and vanilla!

But, like any growing city these ‘old’ areas became neglected as new commercial hubs sprang up in the south and consequently Kota fell into a state of serious neglect. In 2014 the city's governor, Joko Widodo  (now president of Indonesia) revived the restoration plan of Kota Tua. With his "Jakarta Old Town Reborn" (JOTR), a cooperation between state-owned enterprises, and the private sector to restore the area to its former glory.

Ongoing restoration has brought Oud Batavia back to life; its cobbled streets, squares and tall colonial buildings have been given a new lease of life after a much-needed spruce up. Blink and you might think you are in Amsterdam, although the heat and humidity will soon bring you back to earth. The main square is dominated by the brooding Old Jakarta Post Office (Jl Kali Besar), which bears testament to the fine Dutch architecture of the day.

The side streets and gangs, (lanes) are a hive of activity lined with small eateries where locals on work breaks sit at tables on small plastic stools playing chess and taking their lunch cooked over sputtering propane stoves. To explore this maze of streets and lanes, hire a classical bike (sans gears!) from the fellow manning the stall in Central Square. Rp 10,000 will get you about 30 minutes.

.Looking for something exotic or unusual? Then Jalan Surabaya Street is for you, where fabrics, antiques and all manner of eclectic items are displayed on trestle tables. Never pay the initial asking price, as it’s more than like to be double the actual price!!!

Sleeping

Jakarta is blessed with some of the finest hotels anywhere. All the leading brands are here and most, if not all offer exceptional five star services that are second to none. A stand out is The Hermitage  (Jalan Cilacap No 1 Mentang; 0062 21 3192 6888;hermitage.co.id), this heritage hotel re- opened in 2015 following a four-year refurbishment. The service is impeccable as are the impressive antiques.

Food

Visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to eating out; whether it be local or ‘western’, cuisine, you can be sure of finding it. Do try the ‘street food’ as it’s often on par with some of the finest restaurants anywhere in the city and eating at a warung is a great way to connect with the residents.

Batavia (Jalan Pintu Besar Utara 14, 0062 21 6915531; cafebatavia.com) Hard to go past this one if only for the setting! A menu boasts Western and traditional Indonesian offerings and does the best Nasi Goreng in the city.

The Sampan Matsuda Sentra restaurant (Jl. Teuku Cik Ditiro, Menteng, 0062 21 31924617). A tiny eatery offering some of the best Indonesian cuisine in the city. It’s only open from 7pm to 9pm daily so booking is essential.

Retail Therapy

Like any cosmopolitan city, Jakarta is exceptionally well serviced by a plethora of malls. These monuments to newly discovered affluence have become magnets for the well-healed residents. International brands sit cheek by profitable jowl with many local retailers. Here are three suggestions, however there are almost too many of these emporiums to count and if you love shopping you won’t be disappointed.

1000 reasons to leave Jakarta

Sometimes visitors and residents alike feel the need to ’escape’ Jakarta and what better place to do so than the 1000 islands.

A short, 30-minute boat ride will bring you to Pulau Seribu (the Thousand Islands), a cluster of approximately 100 islands stretching 45km into the azure waters of the Java Sea. Many are uninhabited or heritage listed and many more still are privately owned. Visited predominantly by Jakarta residents, islands such as Ayer, Kotok and Sepa offer great snorkeling, and diving.

Chartering a yacht for the day is the way to go; the concierge at your hotel can arrange this. Getting There:  By boat or jetfoil from Ancol Marina or Pluit Marina,

My Jakarta

I’m an unashamed foodie and so I tend to spend much of my time while here trying new and different taste experiences.

I love the smoky, fluorescent-lit, all-day, all-night depots of locally loved Padang food, throbbing with Bollywood music. Tempting dishes are piled on your table  and delivered with lightening speed: One word, delicious!

I have a passion for documenting street art around the world and Jakarta offers some exceptional examples so, heading out in the dead of night with renowned spray painters Miko and Popo is always an adventure.

To get away I usually head to Bogor best known for the fantastic Botanical gardens, spread out over 87 hectares, which are among the best in Indonesia.

Jakarta is a city you ‘learn’ to love and I promise and once it has ensnared you with its charms, it will never disappoint!