Uncorking Bordeaux And The Hidden Wonders Of The Medoc.
First published in Arabian Airlines in-flight magazine November 2019
When we think, or read about “Bordeaux,” one’s immediate impression is that this is a city built on wine. This is partly true as although Bordeaux is famous for its viticulture, it actually has a lot more to offer.
Another common misconception is that Bordeaux is a country area so visitors are often surprised to discover that it nestles almost right on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. White sandy beaches stretch for miles and, due to the prevailing onshore winds, it boasts the highest sand dune in Europe, the Dune of Pilat.
Bordeaux is a truly beautiful city boasting classic examples of 18th Century architecture surrounded by rolling hills dotted with splendid chateaus and medieval castles. Stand atop a hill and the views of cultivated vineyards are breathtaking. Those vineyards thrive in the gravelly soil with sea breezes bring moisture from the ocean produces some of the most sought-after vintages in the world.
Wine is the lifeblood that supports the city and the surrounding villages with its 280,000 acres of vineyards managed by over 22,000 proprietors or ‘patrons’ as the French say. There are over 7000 chateaux or domains which manage an output of over 800 million bottles a year which rather overshadows its equally famous cousin, Burgundy whose output is just 36 million bottles.
If you are a lover of fine food and wine, then by visiting Bordeaux it will feel a little like you have died and gone to heaven! Here the French thrive on producing the best of the best when it comes to their wines but they pay equal attention to the quality of the food.
Wine tours are a must in the region and, for those who love history as well as a glass of fine red, Château Margaux is a ‘must-see’ vineyard. It’s a simply breathtaking estate with its chateaux painted a bold, butter – yellow colour, offset by with
1810 a Neo-Palladian edifice dominating the surrounding countryside. The layout and design were instigated by renowned architect Louis Combes who undertook the commission for the Marquis de la Colonilla. The end result was is the stunning structure that will take the visitor’s breath away which is why it is often referred to as “The Versailles of the Médoc.” In 1946 it was deservedly listed as a “historic monument” of France.
This region of France is bisected by the mighty Gironde River whose waters provide the irrigation for all of the vineyards in the Medoc. It meanders through some of the most picturesque countries in the whole of France and consequently several boutique hotels, bed and breakfasts and Air B&Bs line its banks.
Bordeaux has, over the last twenty years or so become a rather sophisticated city with its 15 museums, including the impressive the Bordeaux Wine Museum as well as having a swathe of fine, boutique art galleries and three Michelin starred restaurants. As one wanders around the great cities of France such as Paris, Lyon or Toulouse you will begin to see that this particular city is a worthy rival in terms of its architecture. Beautiful squares lined with100-year-old plane trees and ornately designed mansions that date back to the time of Victor Hugo.
As mentioned, fine restaurants abound and I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the famous Le Chapon Fin. This restaurant has a fine pedigree, having opened in 1823 and, to this day still serves the classic Bordelais menu which is what made it famous in the first place. There is always plenty of foie gras, roast squab, and their succulent roast lamb roasted with sage. butter.
In late spring and throughout the summer when the weather is fine, be sure to try and get a table on the terrace of the Pavillon des Boulevard, where people come from all over the world to sample their renowned lobster in chestnut cream.
The rather quaint and intimate Jean Ramet, which has a prime location on the banks of the river, seems to attract vinicultures, estate ‘patrons’ and international wine merchants from around the globe who come for the chef’s refined regional cooking.
To visit the great wine estates of Bordeaux it is wise to plan ahead. Most chateaux are open to the public during daylight hours but a booking is often essential. Write to the Bordeaux Wine Bureau who are most helpful and will often design a suitable itinerary.
Where to stay.
There are many fine accommodation choices in the region but one of my favourites is the spectacular 17th century, Château Cordeillan Bages once a Carthusian monastery, with 25 rooms and 4 suites, and a Michelin two-star restaurant in the village of Pauillac.
As mentioned the choices in the Medoc are vast and cater to every budget.
With over 7,000 châteaux to see, the visitor needs more than just a few days to immerse themselves in the region’s grandeur, however, even if you manage to visit just a few they are sure to entice you back if only to sample a few more of the wines you didn’t taste or the vineyards you didn’t see.
